A Hidden Gem Called Sens
Beyond its status as a hidden gem in my mind, Sens is a French commune in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region of France known for attractions such as the Cathédrale Saint-Étienne, Le Marché Couvert, and Musée de Sens. Just in case the term commune is also new to you in this context, a “commune” in France is equivalent to a “township” in America. The commune is walkable and picturesque. I recommend walking alongside the River Yonne after dinner one night during your stay.
To get to Sens, if you choose to fly, the Orly airport in Paris is the closest option. You’ll travel nearly 90 km to Sens upon arriving in Paris. You can ride the train from Paris for €23. The quick journey is around an hour long. I found my ticket on the Trainline app.
When planning your daily excursions and agenda, be sure to account for odd business hours that sometimes come along with visiting small towns like this. I missed out on visiting the Sens Museum because I never did manage to time their open hours correctly with my schedule during my stay in Sens.
Expect to face a deep language barrier if you are arriving to Sens without knowing much French. My experience with the locals in Sens was extremely pleasant despite this self-imposed obstacle. I thank my lucky stars for Google Translate everyday during my time living here in Europe. Some of the people I encountered were even keen to practice their English.
As I mentioned before, the people of Sens were incredibly kind and patient with my ignorance of the French language. One server at a restaurant even took the time to bring me to the door after my meal to show me a rainbow and teach me how to say rainbow in French (arc-en-ciel). It is small moments like that one that burn brightest in the memories of a trip.
Where to Eat
Le 25 Bar à Vin
25 Rue de la République
Le 25 Bar à Vin was truly my favorite restaurant experience in all of Sens. My waiter, Ludovic, was knowledgeable about wines in a way that was engaging and accessible despite the language barrier. He was incredibly patient with our having to use Google Translate. I left this dinner having a new perspective on several white wines. I even tasted a rosé champagne for dessert and was pleasantly surprised by its wonderful flavor. Le 25 Bar á Vin is a safe bet for a fun evening of drinks and new knowledge.
For food, l enjoyed the squid sautéed with garlic - absolutely incredible. I also blindly ordered the cod arras, which ended up being fried puffs of dough with the cod and herbs accompanied with a spicy dipping sauce that I can only liken to a pepper puree of some sort. The sauce was so fresh and delicious I ordered a second serving.
If you try any restaurant in Sens, let it be this one. Be sure to sign the bathroom wall before you leave the restaurant, and look for my name on the wall near the “bistro” sticker.
Sens Coffee Shop
6 Rue Etienne Mimard
This cute shop is modern in design, but maintains its family owned vibes. The shop owner was accommodating and kind. My jasmine tea turned out to be equally as wonderful. “Yeah” by Usher came on as I sipped my tea. The American music that seems to play across Europe always makes me smile.
Cafe Thé Sens
65 Grand Rue
This tea house has a huge selection of coffee, tea, and chocolate. Grab a cup and enjoy yourself as the locals chit chat quietly at the surrounding tables. I was excited by the sheer variety of options and great tea recommendations from my server. The people watching from the cafe’s front window is also ideal.
Le Chalet
10 Rue Etienne Mimard
The ambiance is bright, cozy, and clean. This restaurant felt like a great spot for a date night. Upon receiving our drink order, we were also given complimentary breads before our meal. The assortment included a small toast with melted cheese and a cheesy baked biscuit.
Our food exceeded my expectations. I ordered an entree from the specialty menu. It was a turkey slice topped with ham and melted cheese on a bed of mushroom sauce. It came with a side of buckwheat noodles in a creamy sauce and melted cheese on top in a mini cast iron skillet. I love, love, loved this dish. It was like a new take on the classic mac and cheese. We finished the meal with an espresso, which came with a super soft and amazing mini chocolate chip cookie. A wonderful touch, if you ask me.
What to See
Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Sens
Pl. de la République, 89100 Sens, France
This stunning catholic cathedral, located within the commune of Sens, was the first of its gothic architectural style. The cathedral was constructed over 30 years between 1130 - 1168. It is a national monument in France. I highly recommend spending an afternoon marveling at the sculptures, stained glass, and many altars within the cathedral.
Jardin de l’Orangerie
135 B Rue Déportés et de la Résistance
The Jardin de l’Orangerie is a small and stunning garden attached to the Sens Museum. You will find more than 3,600 bedded plants to admire during your stroll. The garden is open year round from 8:00 to 14:00. There is no admission cost to enter the gardens. It is important to note pets are not allowed within the garden walls.
Where to Shop
Maison Grace
27 Rue du Plait d’Étain
Go shop at Maison Grace for gorgeous, gorgeous clothes of great quality and reasonable prices. This is my favorite boutique that I’ve come across in Europe. The fabrics were so dreamy. From the scarves to the funky sunglasses to the fun claw clips, there was a great selection of accessories. I even found a notebook that I couldn’t leave without.
La Maison du Savon de Marseille
69 Grand Rue
This gorgeous soap and natural cosmetics store has a multitude of scents to choose from, each bar of soap is more beautifully crafted than the last.There are even fun, personalized options to choose from as gifts for your loved ones.
Le Marché Couvert
Pl. de la République, 89100 Sens, France
Le Marché Couvert is a covered market located in the heart of Sens. The building was constructed in the 19th century and renovated in 2015. I wish I had gotten a photo of the impressive brick patterns laid on the building exterior. Within the walls of the market, you will find a selection of local products like snails, cheeses, meats, and beer.
I truly enjoyed my brief stay in Sens and would absolutely return for another visit. I’m grateful to my photographer friends (@hollyodophoto + @kineo.iris_photography) who let me tag along for their destination wedding trip so that I could explore this little town that I otherwise might not have ever gotten to experience. If you have a small European town experience like this, please message me on Instagram (@ajamoonwrites). I can’t wait to hear from you.
Until next time,
Aja